Jump to content
  • Join the online East Midlands astronomy club today!

    With active forums, two dark sites and a knowledgeable membership, East Midlands Stargazers has something for everyone.

My Workshop/Warm Room/Man Cave Build


Doc

Recommended Posts

13 minutes ago, Doc said:

Will do Pete. How's your 20" dob coming along?

The heating system in my workshop/sun deck/driveway seems to have been broken for about six months. :brr: 

 

Now the weather is improving, I hope to get some new inspiration and the spare time to make some progress again.

 

I am now at the stage where I don't need to spend much more money on the project, just allocate the time for doing it. Since the actual engineering and woodworking aspect has never been my day job, it just seems to take me an awful long time to do a small amount of work. This is not helped by the fact that I am a bit of a perfectionist. I have been known to spend a couple of days on a part, only to scrap it and start again because I wasn't totally happy with my workmanship! :rolleyes:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Item #9 next which are the top cylinder covers. I wanted to make the tops profiled like the plans but I don't have any profiling tools and maybe lack the skill as well. I tried grinding a dome profile tool but it was a bulls up so binned it.

 

Anyway I just made the top chamfered instead. There is enough meat on the item to dome it at a latter stage.

 

Once again most important point was to get the lip a nice tight fit in the cylinder.

 

fumYtG.jpg

 

9hwZqg.jpg

 

5FHPXZ.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Next item #24 the pistons.

 

These were cut from 2" aluminium bar and was machined to the correct diameter. After a few attempts I managed to get the diameter to 0.001" under the size of the cylinder.

 

VeoYKn.jpg

 

I then cut the groove for the O Ring with a parting tool. Next came the M5 thread through the middle and final operation was to part it off and machine to the correct thickness.

 

J4uKwC.jpg

 

Tried sliding them into the bores and they were a nice tight fit. I still have to hone the cylinder bores so once that is done and the O rings are fitted it should be a wonderful fit, keeping my fingers crossed.

 

SMSpNk.jpg

 

AJ6v0Z.jpg

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A little more lathe time and this was to make the spool valve and eccentric strap spindle top items #33 & #34.

 

This was all made from brass rod and hexagon bar and turned on the lathe. The spool valve diameter is pretty critical as it runs inside the spool liner  which is basically just a brass tube which is honed.

 

I used the threading tool to make the grooves in the spool valve.

 

jDsh01.jpg

 

DovEc3.jpg

 

XkBzdh.jpg

 

aIya7b.jpg

 

glVMJX.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Next items are #28,29,30,31 & 35 basically the con rod, yoke, bearing and connecting pin.

 

The yoke was milled from a small block of aluminium to the right dimensions and then the holes were drilled and threaded for the connecting rod and pin. After this I used the 9.5mm slot drill to cut the 10mm slot.

 

FbJLp0.jpg

 

The con rod was next, this was basically a piece of 10mm diameter stainless steel rod with M6 threads at each end. One end has a 3mm diameter oil hole drill through to meet with an adjacent hole drill at 90° in the shaft.

 

Then I made the con rod bearing ends. These were made from round stock which was cut to size and shaped. It was them put in the mill and the sides taken down to the correct thickness. It was next sliced in two with a slitting saw and drilled and tapped to secure together. The hole for the brass bearing was then drilled and reamed.

 

iuCW76.jpg

 

N1vZQC.jpg

 

Next the connecting pin was made out of stainless steel, and the slitting saw used to but the screwdriver groove.

 

wawU0f.jpg

 

The above image clearly shows the oil hole to lubricate the bearing. The bearings were made next on the lathe. I made a mandrel so I could machine all sides at the same time.

 

NbeDUF.jpg

 

wjFISc.jpg

 

 

These are the parts I have so far made.

 

QkOvQa.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Ron.

 

Item #26 the crosshead was next. This important part sits between the con rod and the yoke and guides the piston up and down.

 

There is quite a lot of machining involved and was a pleasure to make. I made it out of mild steel instead of brass as I run out of Brass. I have loads of aluminium and steel but do lack brass.

 

8b88VY.jpg

 

Drilling the oil hole.

 

WgglDm.jpg

 

FvyeKX.jpg

 

Below shows where the crosshead guide will screw into. 

 

wPDmGO.jpg

 

Qn6sMB.jpg

 

VuQieg.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Started building the crankshaft today. The plan was to press and loctite together for now and once I'm sure it's all in the right place I will drill, taper ream and insert taper pins to hold.

 

Below shows the crankshaft cheeks.

 

8fknWa.jpg

 

hcVC4F.jpg

 

The cheeks were reamed either 7mm or 8 mm depending on which shaft went through it. I reamed them as a set of four to keep concentricity.

 

Ifrqx4.jpg

 

The crankshafts were next these were items 16,17,18,& 19 this was a straight forward turning job, just made sure the ends were 0.004 larger then the reamed holes in the cheeks and that was enough to press the cheeks on and hold them. One end has worked loose but it will eventually be pinned so it doesn't matter.

 

EvWNGV.jpg

 

The last photo shows the crankshaft built up and the conrods and pistons connected inside their cylinders.

 

Z8zh4s.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

My lathe chuck is slightly too small to grip the billet of aluminium so I set it up on the milling machine and drilled the centre hole.

 

NqD9RW.jpg

 

I then made up an arbor and set this up in the lathe so the flywheel is running between centres, I then preceded to reduce to the correct diameter.

 

xpMvnU.jpg

 

bS3NBA.jpg

 

I cut the recess on the sides and transferred the flywheel back to the milling machine. I worked out the degree positions in both the X and Y axis and set the centre position to zero.

With the co-ordinates dialed in I moved the axises to the required readings and drilled the holes.

 

vNvbgt.jpg

 

TFRAir.jpg

 

I wanted the flywheel to have a key way slot so I made up my own keyway cutter with a round bar smaller than the hole for the shaft. A hole was then cut through this and a piece of tool steel placed in the hole and secured with a bolt. The tool steel was ground to the diameter of the key.

 

I was then mounted in the chuck and the table lowered and raised a few thou at a time. It took many passes but eventually the key way was cut.

 

eFGNZv.jpg

 

RMyoW5.jpg

 

Finished article.

 

eMbkEl.jpg

 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Only just stumbled across this, and what an impressive project, Mick!

 

I'd love the time and space for something like this. Every practical bloke needs a man cave. Well done, sir!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.