CCD or DSLR

[Guest StevenWhatley]

I currently have a canon 350d which due to the non live screen am struggling to get into focus on many of my snaps, when looking around for alternatives I don't know what's best to get next .... Do I get a better DSLR or buy a CCD camera ?... Any suggestions.

I enjoy taking pictures of the planets and moon but I'm getting interested in DSO too now.

Cheers

[red dwalf]

i have live view on my 1100d but to be honest i dont use it, i connect it to the pc or laptop, and using apt, astro photography tool, take a 20 or 30 second exposure with the bantinov mask on and focuse from there, very easy to do

[Guest Kheldar]

As above, live view isn't that hot - PC driven is the way to go

[Guest StevenWhatley]

Yeah that's what I was thinking was the route to go down, as I cannot use the 350d to connect to a pc (or at least I haven't figured it out, but as far as I'm aware it's not an option)..

[red dwalf]

fairly certain APT works with the 350, there are two versions to download, if you have a usb port on the camera and manual mode you should be able to use it.

you might find more help here,

http://www.ideiki.com/astro/Default.aspx

[Orion]

i have live view on my 1100d but to be honest i dont use it, i connect it to the pc or laptop, and using apt, astro photography tool, take a 20 or 30 second exposure with the bantinov mask on and focuse from there, very easy to do

When you say take 20-30s exp with bat mask on and focus from there, is this looking at the recorded image of the pattern from the mask. If not in focus, you then tweak focus one side or the other side then take another 20-30s exp and review the image again. If not in focus, tweak again? And if so, can the focus position be interpolated by the appearance of say two images - e.g. relative to the last image taken, one eighth of a turn clockwise more/one quarter turn anticlockwise etc?

Once focused, if everything is locked, how long can exposures be ran until focus should be checked? (I assume this might be apparent if real images are regularly inspected during a session, which might show changed focus if temperature changes or equipment accidentally knocked etc?)

Derek

[red dwalf]

correct, in APT you have a focus plan, this will take a exposure for as long as you want but won`t save the image so doesn`t clog up your hard drive.

using the bantinov mask will show 3 lines criss crossing in the centre, you adjust the focus until they cross in the centre then you have perfect focus.

if your using a osc camera then you won`t need to keep checking focus, but using a mono camera with filters it might be an advantage to check focus after each filter change.

[+Graham]

I use BYE (back yard eos) with my 350 D.

Dead simple to use.

Makes focusing a doddle.

[Guest]

I have a Konica Minolta Dynax 5D and have problems focussing, too, as I don't have live view. I have started using it to do prime focus shots only recently.

 

My p worth on the original question:

 

1. A DSLR can also be used for tourist and family use. I prefer it to compacts

 

2. A DSLR can also be used to widefield shots, like constellations

 

3. A CCD probably gives better results but I don't have one so can't comment. It can't be used for anything else without a telescope

 

IF I had the dosh I'd get both

[glider]

Depending on what I want to image;

 

DSLR with camera lens............... Widefield.

DSLR with telescope................... Larger DSO/Full disc lunar.

Webcam with telescope.............. Planetary/Lunar close up and mosaics.

CCD with telescope..................... DSO.

 

Obviously you could slap a huge camera lens on a DSLR and snap smaller DSO but I think horses for courses.