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Guest Steveohim

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Guest Steveohim

I've just borrowed a celetron astromaster 130eq md to see if I like it before I buy one, I'm brand new to stargazing and know absolutely nothing, I've also got a set of lenses, the £50 one from amazon, trouble is I can see a damn thing, I don't know what lens to put in, I was looking for Mars when I found it for a brief second but it doesn't resemble a planet, it's just a bright light, also when looking through the telescope the is a projection of the cross thing with the circle in the middle at the front on the image, why's that?

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Guest Steveohim

Yes but I don't even know what lenses I should be using, I can only find videos that show you how to set up the telescope, not actually use it

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Hi Steve, The best thing to do is get to know your scope in daylight, learn how to set it up and get to find your way round it, so when you are out in the dark you know where all the bits are. This saves you struggling and getting frustrated. Give us an idea of the lens, or eyepiece you have purchased so we can help you out.


 


Gary is right, have a look round for video's to show you how to set up and align the mount and scope. There is sometimes a difference between reality and what the instructions say, and sometimes a shortcut or tip that helps getting going.


These are good scopes and will show some great objects, once you have got the hang of it you'll wonder what all the fuss was about, we have all been there.


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When you say lenses, do you mean eyepieces? These are what you stick in the focuser and look through.


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Guest zidder

Yes but I don't even know what lenses I should be using, I can only find videos that show you how to set up the telescope, not actually use it

 

The lenses /eyepieces will have a number on them. ( i.e. 10mm  20mm 15mm etc ) this equates to the magnification, the lower the number the higher the magnification, so say you want to look at Jupiter as close as you can then you use the lowest number eyepiece.

 

But as with a lot of things it is not quite as simple as that, some of the beginner type  scopes make all sorts of claims ( I have the t/shirt) if you have 20mm eyepiece stick with that at first, this will give you a reasonable field of view and should not over power the scope.

 

As the scope has an EQ mount there is some setting up to be before it is properly useable even more so with the motor drive so I think youtube is the place to go

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OK. The ones you have a barrel on and the numbers 6,10,15, & 20 are eyepieces, and the number refers to it's focal length. In a nutshell the smaller the number, the higher the magnification you will get from it.


I would start with the 20mm and have a look with that and get it focused correctly.


 


The smaller flatter disc like ones are filters. These alter the light that they allow through, and can enhance certain features on what you are looking at. Don't bother with these yet until you have got the view sorted out.


 


Tomorrow start by getting the view finder aligned, I am not sure how you would alter the alignment of the one on your scope, refer to the instructions for that.


http://www.celestron.com/c3/images/files/downloads/1219957574_astromasterinst.pdf


 


But do it in the daytime on something like a chimney pot or something that's over a few hundred meters away. That way you will have a fighting chance of finding what you are looking for when it's dark.


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Guest zidder

You have three night eye pieces and one daytime eye piece (20mm erecting is daytime) then as you probably know there are three filters, these filters screw into the bottom of the eye pieces, don't worry about the filters for now.

Probably best to stick with the 15mm to start. Did the guy who you borrowed it of not know how to set it up? and when did he last use it ?

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Hi Steve,


 


Yes you will see some really good stuff once you get the hang of using it.


 


As per Martyn says above to align the finder.


 


Initially, stick with the 20mm eyepiece. This will give your lowest magnification of 33x and the widest field of view, about 1.5 degrees (3 moon diameters). The wider field of view will make it much easier to find objects. Once found and centred in the eyepiece you can then put in a higher magnification, lower number eyepiece, to examine the object in more detail.


 


You are seeing the cross shaped shadow of the secondary diagonal mirror holder and the the circular shadow of the secondary mirror, this means you are not in focus. Turn the dials on the side of the eyepiece holder (the focuser) and watch the image of a bright object as you rack it in or out. When the image is at its smallest you are in focus and the cross and circle will not be visible anymore.

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Guest Steveohim

Thanks I did the daylight thing earlier with the chimney pots and it worked fine, my main problem now is locating a planet without the cross thing in and keeping the scope dead still when I find it

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Guest Steveohim

You have three night eye pieces and one daytime eye piece (20mm erecting is daytime) then as you probably know there are three filters, these filters screw into the bottom of the eye pieces, don't worry about the filters for now.

Probably best to stick with the 15mm to start. Did the guy who you borrowed it of not know how to set it up? and when did he last use it ?

No the guy is a beginner like me, he couldn't see anything in the scope either

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Guest Steveohim

How do I keep the scope dead still when I find something? Last time I saw something but the scope moved slightly and the object was gone

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You don't want to see the first out of focus image, it should be more like the second image and then more fainter stars should also be visible...


1focus.jpg


 


1Betelgeuse_3.jpg


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Hi Steve. As said earlier, do a daylight set-up.


The first thing is that you start with the lowest magnification possible. That means using the eye piece (EP) with the largest number printed on it.


Point the scope at the most distant chimney or TV aerial you can find (something that doesn't move) by sighting along the tube. Once you have it aimed, lock it in place by tightening the wing bolts. You will need to focus and I'll assume for now that that's possible.


Now turn your attention to the sighting device (Finder scope). Look through it and use the screws that are sticking out the sides to adjust it so it's looking at the same thing as the main scope. 


You will now be able to use the much wider view provided by the finder to find objects in the main scope. Practice. Try a bit of bird watching with the 20mm Erecting eye piece. Erecting means "Right way up".


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It could be the mirrors are out of alignment, (collimation). If it is badly out you won't possibly see a thing. This is something that someone who knows what they are doing needs to have a look at. If the owner has twiddled the screws and tried to do this, it might have put it out. There are basic tips on this in the instructions, but really you need a laser of Cheshire eyepiece to collimate it.


 


If you have the transport, pop over and see if anyone here could help out.


http://cotswoldas.org.uk/cas/


 


It might be you need a bit of hands on help to get it sorted out.


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Guest Steveohim

Thanks for all the info, I did a daylight test on chimney pots earlier, it worked ok. I will have another go tomorrow

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Guest zidder

How do I keep the scope dead still when I find something? Last time I saw something but the scope moved slightly and the object was gone

The object will always move because of the rotation of the earth, once you know how to use the motor drive this will help you to keep the object in view, also make sure all the pivot points on the tri-pod are not loose

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Two things...


 


Your telescope may be set up on the mount off balance, causing the mount to slip and move. Try to get the correct balance position.


 


There should be some adjustable thumbscrews that will tighten the axes of the mount so it does not move quite so easily. Only tighten them enough to stop unwanted movement.

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