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Advice please


Tweedledee

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I want to dismantle my Meade 10" F4 Schmidt Newtonian OTA.

I would like to clean the mirrors and corrector plate, drill some holes in the tube and do some other minor mods, and might have a go at flocking it, then put it back together and re-collimate.

I understand that this is not a 10 minute job but I'm not worried about it being out if action for a while as I don't have a mount yet.

Having little or no previous experience of such a task (except with a small Newtonian), the thing that worries me is that I don't see too much of a problem with doing it :)

So perhaps someone out there can explain some of the pitfalls I haven't envisaged, or tell me not to be so silly and pay a professional to do it instead. Thanks.

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Go for it Pete.

What is the worse that can happen.

So long as you are careful and make notes/photos of all the bits and where they came from whats the problem.

Lets face it if it does turn into a disaster you can always then send the bits off to a pro to get them to put it back together. ;)

I am all for people having a go.

You will probabley learn one hell of a lot about your scope in the process.

I say hats off to you.

Best of luck with it.

Graham.

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Why not nip over to Astronomyshed and check out Dions very helpful videos and tutorials. It's based on Skywatcher Newts but I'm sure there are lots of similarities

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All I know Pete is that the corrector is figured to the rest of the optics so it needs to go back in exactly the same position it was in before. Make sure it's very precisely marked when removing and replacing it. Other than that I've never tried this - so I'll be learning from your experiences lol :)

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Thanks for all your confidence building on this one chaps.

On the strength of your endorsements I have just managed to squeeze all the optics into the sink where they are soaking in Mr. Muscle oven cleaner. That should soften any dirt. Another hour of soaking and I can start using some elbow grease with my scouring pads. They do a great job shifting stubborn algae stains off my aquarium glass.

Will post some pics later when they are all nice and clean.

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:D:P:D:P:D

Seriously though, I will thoroughly read up on this and familiarise myself with what I am about to do, before I even put a screwdriver near the scope.

The Astronomy Shed video's sound like a great place to start Tom, and I shall note down and photograph every step Graham.

So far Kim, that is also about the limit of my knowledge - that the precise rotation of the corrector relative to the primary is critical.

So this should be and interesting project. I just want this scope to be the best it can be, and show me some amazing sights.

I'm sure I will be back for some more support at some stage.

Thanks very much,

Pete.

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I would really welcome your help Mike.

The word on the street is that you are the worlds top flocking expert :) .

Thanks very much.

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I would really welcome your help Mike.

The word on the street is that you are the worlds top flocking expert :) .

Thanks very much.

Hardly, but I was stupid enough to do the 200p in a single piece lol

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Lol.

Do you reckon that the larger tube might make for easier flocking ?

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Lol.

Do you reckon that the larger tube might make for easier flocking ?

Yes but no but...... Will give more room to climb inside but will mean more flocking material to wrestle with, swings and roundabouts really, I'm sure it's do-able though given enough tea :D

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Guest Tweedledum

Pete,

Firstly do not use a brillo pad....

The corrector plate alignment is crucial. If you take it off ensure that you mark where it came off in at least three places. You may find that there is some packing (there was in the lx) in the form of cork or cardboard.make sure you retain these.

If it is ike the lx, there is a plastic outer retaining collar, remove this, then you have access to the corrector plate. Remove then invert and put back onto the tube. This allows you to clean the inner whilst it is suported by the tube, and gives access to the secondary. If you have not got baader wfluid, use a few drops of iso propy alcohol (obtained from your local coffee house if you do not have some) put into a SMALL pot of warm water and clean using microfibre cloth.

Invert clean outer, repack and align.

Cheers

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Looks like we're going to have a flocking party :) .

Plenty of tea, coffee and biscuits. Damian will have to keep the lid on the isopropyl alcohol till later. Don't want anybody drunk in charge of a 10" newt :D .

Thanks very much for your interest Pat and Mike, we will sort something out.

I haven't had time to study any Astronomy Shed vids yet ( spent the morning mowing the lawns and trimming the hedges ), is it not possible to clean the corrector and secondary without removing the glass from the metal cell. Don't like the sound of messing about with little bits of cork packing. Or is this packing between the cell and the tube.

Cheers,

Pete.

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I don't know if he covers your scope Pete, but have a look at "Mike Weasners" website, he has loads on various Meades.

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Thanks Martyn.

Just done a search on the Weasners site. Nothing regarding stripping down the SNT, but a couple of interesting bits confirming that I seem to have plumped for a pretty good scope :) .

Have you ever collimated one of these?

Cheers.

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If its F4 it's gonna be a tough one to collimate and remember the offset. I practiced with mine for a few days then I finally got it down to minutes. But that was after centring the focuser to start with.

Edited by Teslar
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Bit of a challenge then. Although I would hope that the collimation might hold longer due to the corrector plate supporting the secondary rather than a spider.

How many minutes did you manage to get it down to?

Edited by petersull
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