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How to clean a Mak?


Mark Harper.
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Today I bought a used, lol, I use that term loosely as it has been out of the box once, long story short, a lovely little lady of a certain age bought it new, struggled to mount it due to the weight, then finding it too much has sometime later decided it's dead weight and could be cash towards other astro gear. She has 10 yrs astro experience and is now the owner of a Skywatcher ED80, so a happy ending all round.


 


Now I've cleaned the main lens using carbon, although I see a few bits on the inside, they are bugging me as I like visual perfection, so how do I get behind that front element? Will I damage anything using the Dyson? Should I risk opening it up? Advice please.....


 


                                                                                                                                                                                         Cheers, Mark.


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Dont get me wrong, you can clean optics etc but the truth of the matter is, you can have a layer of dust/ dirt etc on your primary, even scratches and half the time, you will never even notice.


 


Badeer wonder fluid is the best bet I beleive if you relly must do it.


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Guest Tweedledum

Echo comments above, if you must clean the meniscus use baader wonderfluid. If you point a torch down a mak or sct the view is awful.you get mixed up images of the baffles etc. I resisted the urge to tae the corrector plate off my 10" sct, when I sold it there were still a dog hair attached to the inside of the corrector plate!


 


Cheers


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I think I'll have a look down it


 


What is it Mark a mak 127, mak 180??

Hey Felix it's a 150. I was pulling your leg about the Baader zoom, I thought you'd say yes, I would hope you would never lend it out...... I tried to buy one today but they are as rare as rocking horse poo. I would like a look if we meet up sometime though. Lol, I wouldn't lend mine to anyine either. ;)


 


Dont get me wrong, you can clean optics etc but the truth of the matter is, you can have a layer of dust/ dirt etc on your primary, even scratches and half the time, you will never even notice.

 


Badeer wonder fluid is the best bet I beleive if you relly must do it.


 


I really like this kind of feedback, I was very tempted to attempt to remove it. I think I'll have a look through it before I start dismantling it, I don't have much fear in these scenarios, hence stripping my laptop to it's bare components, even removing the screen etc....


 


Echo comments above, if you must clean the meniscus use baader wonderfluid. If you point a torch down a mak or sct the view is awful.you get mixed up images of the baffles etc. I resisted the urge to tae the corrector plate off my 10" sct, when I sold it there were still a dog hair attached to the inside of the corrector plate!


Cheers

 


 


Unless there is a thin even layer of cake on it, leave well alone!

Lol, with Sheilas skills, I'm sure it'll happen. I just found a beautiful mod on astronomy shed for the focuser on a 180 MAK.


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I would also suggest putting two bits of insulating tape on it, one on the corrector cell frame, and one on the body of the scope, so when they go back together they 're correctly aligned, and as when you removed it. If you put them back in the wrong holes it can cause problems with collimation.


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Mark


Is the dust specs on the inside of the corrector or on the primary mirror itself or a bit of both?.


Having cleaned the corrector, the primary may need cleaning too if your looking for visual perfection.


I've owned two SW127 Mak's, the blue one had hardly no dust, the black one had dust but resisted the urge to tinker as it did not show up in actual use.


I know how you feel, having had to clean lenses and DSLR sensors, I wouldnt worry too much if the dust is not showing up in actual use.


The trouble is with this cleaning malarky is once you have achieved optical cleanliness perfection, the dilemma is....dare I take it out and use it ?.


 


Paul

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Guest Tweedledum

Its not onlymaking sure the meniscus goes back in the same place, watch out for any small pieces of packing that may be present, may be as small as a piece of cork or cardboard! Unless they go back in the same place the optical path will be off.


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@ Paul. I haven't looked at the mirror, it's on the inside of the front element that is bugging me. I'd quite like to try a can of air and a Dyson, then I'm not touching anything. But like I said earlier, I won't do anything until I've looked through it. If it can't be seen I won't mess with it. M.

@ Damien. I hear what your saying Damien, it's sounding more and more like a DO NOT TOUCH!!! exercise by the minute.

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Corrector plates must go back in teh same orientation on most mass produced SCTs mainly because they match them in the factory test, I should imagine that a Mak is very much the same especially as its off similar assembly lines.


 


If its just a few specks of dust and muck then I personally would leave it, you wouldnt notice it when viewing, however if its covered in mould and dust then it will need cleaning to restore the performance, then strip it but make sure it goes back together the same way it came apart.


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