Guest AstroOlly Posted March 14, 2013 Share Posted March 14, 2013 Hi All,Went out again last night to try to get some good Jupiter AVI's, disaster again, spent a while getting a good alignment between finder and main scope as it was a bit off, that went well.Then problems with power cable into scope, during goto's power plug must be moving very slightly in socket on side of scope base and ....power gone for a split second...back to polar aligning again, for the third time. sorted that out i think.Then got Jupiter nice and bright in the middle of the eyepiece, swapped to Toucam Webcam, turned on Sharpcap, and there it was bang in the middle, but a white blob needing focus, ok so i turn focus knob.....and what happens, it drifts out off the chip due to primary mirror shift, get it back again and it happens all over again....did my head in. Even with Jupiter smack in the middle of the finder view, it was off the camera sensor due to imaging at 4000mm fl, had to keep putting eyepiece back in and centering, but as soon as focus knob turned....GONE.Does anyone have a way around this other than spending loads on a SCT crayford focuser, (so as not to move primary when focusing) which i dont want to do, or imaging at a lower focal length, which i don't want to do either.Help appreciatedI gave up in the endOlly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dawson Posted March 14, 2013 Share Posted March 14, 2013 (edited) Olly, hello. I can't help specifically with your issues, but I had a similar problem with my power lead, and had to keep re-aligning! I had a look inside the connection of the lead and the solder was fractured. I tried to re-solder it but ended up making a right mess (and even blew the few in the cigarette lighter connection end as I'd inadvertently made a solder bridge between the positive and negative), so I got a new connection and soldered it from scratch, all sorted now. Also, I now tape a little bit of power lead to the mount so when it rotates it doesn't apply any traction to the connection, just to the tape. As an aside, I was born in Atherstone, and still have family there, and had friends in Sheepy. A lovely part of the country. James Edited March 14, 2013 by dawson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest AstroOlly Posted March 14, 2013 Share Posted March 14, 2013 Olly, hello. I can't help specifically with your issues, but I had a similar problem with my power lead, and had to keep re-aligning! I had a look inside the connection of the lead and the solder was fractured. I tried to re-solder it but ended up making a right mess (and even blew the few in the cigarette lighter connection end as I'd inadvertently made a solder bridge between the positive and negative), so I got a new connection and soldered it from scratch, all sorted now. Also, I now take a little bit of power lead to the mount so when it rotates it doesn't apply any traction to the connection, just to the tape. As an aside, I was born in Atherstone, and still have family there, and had friends in Sheepy. A lovely part of the country. James Hi James, Thanks for the input, i did think about taping the connection down. Who do you know in Sheepy? as i have lived here for 38 years, i may well know them Olly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dawson Posted March 14, 2013 Share Posted March 14, 2013 I'll private message you. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bagman Posted March 19, 2013 Share Posted March 19, 2013 Olly Only just noticed thread. I use a LifeCam with my lx90 fitted directly into the visual back, ie in place of diagonal without problem during focusing. The diagonal seemed to flex altering the light path Hope this helps Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red dwalf Posted March 19, 2013 Share Posted March 19, 2013 one thing to try instead of keep removing the eyepiece and putting in the webcam is to use a flip mirror, screw it onto the back of the sct and webacm out the back of the flip mirror and say a 10mm eyepiece in the top or a illuminated cross eyepiece is good for centering. imaging at 4000mm focal length will be tricky as the field of view will be very small so you`ll need to spend more time polar aligning to get it as good as possiable otherwise the planet will soon drift out of the field of view. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 19, 2013 Share Posted March 19, 2013 I don't have a motor drive and find that imaging with a 127mm Mak and 2 or 3x Barlow tests my patience to the limit. I use a variable polarizing filter without the Barlow lens, or I get over-exposure. I recommend not to use a webcam unless you will get a clear hour outside free of interruptions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bagman Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 Another thought, have you tried a spiral search to relocate jupiter, initiated by pressing the goto key for about 2 sec. and stopped with the mode key Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest AstroOlly Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 No have not tried that, but am going to hopefully solve the problem by investing in a non rotating helical focuser for the back of my scope when imaging planets This one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380526684653?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 MM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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