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How did you flock your tube.


Doc

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I'm going to flock my new 300P top and bottom.

This will be the first time I've flocked a scope and I've read a few tutorials, some people do it in one piece and some do it it strips.

How did you lot do yours?

I'm going to remove focuser and spider and also primary mirror. Also going to remove all end mouldings so all I have left is the bare metal tube.

Also did you blacken your secondary mirror sides if so was it with a black marker pen?

Is this the correct stuff:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160828451115?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

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Yes, that is the stuff. I used it, it is the exact same as the wilko's stuff and is exactly the same as FLO sell.

I did mine in one piece and that was the full length of the 200p! Not an easy task, but ha given great results and has the least number of corners or edges to fift, which I might add none have done so.

Measure twice cut once, a sharp knife is a must

I flocked the inside of the focuser draw tube as well.

Didn't do the secondary, maybe I should have but can't say as it is noticable. The flocking of the tube though has made a big difference to contrast.

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I did it all in one piece - stuck more of it to itself and me than the tube - frickin nightmare - ended up scraping a lot off and redoing it. Not for the faint hearted - but I got there in the end. If you want to see what not to do you should have a look at mine lol :)

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Hey Mick,

Yep I took everything off, bare metal tube. Did mine in two pieces (mainly due to the size limitation of role of material from wilko's)

Don't forget to flock inside focuser tube itself.

As for method you can use a couple of drops of washing up liquid in water in a spray bottle and lightly spray where you will apply flocking, this gives some manoeuvrability when you place the flocking material down. As in you can slide it then once in correct place you can smooth out the bubbles and creases and after 24 hours the water/washing up liquid mix has evaporated and flocking material is stuck firmly and neatly in place.

Other than just placing and sticking it in the place (which is what I did) then for all the bolt holes and focuser hole I used a craft knife (well a scalpel from work he he) same as a crafters knife!

Took me a fair while as I did it dry and made a massive crease at one point and was too hasty trying to peel back and tore that whole piece so took whole of that piece off and started over!Just careful placement inch by inch then plenty of rubbing over the entirety to get air bubbles to edge and out and you're done. Regarding the back of the secondary I forgot to do it and keep meaning to but I read somewhere (SGL I think) that you're supposed to use blackboard paint! I will be using black pen, don't trust myself!

Edited by catman161
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I did mine in 2 I think, By using 2 pieces it was fairly easy, one at either end, I got it perfect first attempt, Just avoid putting too much pressure on it then if it goes wrong you can peel it off, or as felix says use something like washing up liquid but I would have thought that stops it sticking completely, obviously not though!

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Washing up liquid, thats a neat trick.

I'll order some tomorrow from E-Bay.

Ha ha it's just a technique that I found about as I used to have a mate obsessed with keving up his car and it was how he used to be able to apply his graphics and have 'breathing space' for misplacement. When I say couple of drops and light spray it is literally that!

Small amounts and no problems with stickage. If you are gonna do a 'wet application' you put the water in the spray bottle first then the two drops washing up liquid, let it settle for a couple of hours, don't shake it otherwise you get bubbles galore!

Prime the spray bottle first-a few squirts into the air to ensure its a very fine mist before spray inside OTA.

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Guest Madatter

Doing mine tomorrow, great idea with the washing up liquid, it works a treat when putting phone screen savers on so it should help with this.

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I have buggered mine up, need to take it off and start again.

So frustrating isn't it?! I feel ya pain daz. Like I said messed up the second half of mine when I was so very close to finish and in my haste tore a huge hole!! In your head you're like "nooooooooooooooo!!!"

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Another job for Bob, maybe? But not before EMS1.

I've dealt with the Vinyl Depot before, they are very good, they even sent me samples when I was choosing the campers new headlining. The vinyl was also very nice to work with - well it was around windows and things. :blink:

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wilkinsons sell it also Mick, can be ordered and picked up from local store, chaeper than buying it from FLO, same stuff,

http://www.wilkinsonplus.com/dc-fix-fablon/d-c-fix-original-deco-self-adhesive-film-velour-black-348-0005/invt/0309578/?htxt=%2FUvRjc0xAaKk26JwgsxcsV6E2gjpK53ITJCPcypNRrR6jhjYX3SDlEUFWaOdTpLU0xVcTayKYYOc%0Aw4t9gBa9qg%3D%3D

i did my old scope with the material john in derby used to sell, it was amazingly sticky, what i was told to do is when you have stuck it into the tube, you need to score down the length of the fabric top to bottom with a craft knife about every 2 or 3 inches apart, can`t remember why but there`s a tutorial somewhere on the web about it,

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I did mine with strips that met half way up the tube, not the neatest method as some overlaps occurred which flip up from time to time.

Love the wet application idea, let me know how it goes Doc.

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I noticed that Wilkinsons at Ilkeston had re-stocked with flocking material when I was in last week.

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Guest june1902

john used the protostar material, on the 200p which didnt require glue at all !!

it's more expensive that's true but not needing to mess with glue was the clincher for this job, just cut to the tube length

and again for the inner circumfrance roll it up....insert....and it self expand's just need to mark and cut holes where required

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No glue required when I flocked my 200P with the wilko's stuff-sticky as hell. It's high stickiness was what made it actually quite difficult to work with :) But triumph I did! With a satisfactory symmetry and zero air bubbles! I was well chuffed with myself when I finished ;)

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I've never trusted myself to do this yet. Which is strange as I did manage to remove the secondary on my Quattro and paint it with blackboard paint. Without chipping it like a well known Astro video star ;)

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All done.

Stripped the whole scope down to bare tubes, took off end mouldings so made the job pretty easy and very neat, no creases or air bubbles so pretty chuffed. While I was at it I black marker pened the outer of the secondary.

Only part I didn't do was the focuser, still not sure how much difference this makes.

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Nice one Mick

It's nice to see the scope being used to it's full potential!

I was always too cowardly to do anything to it. :(

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Nice one Mick

It's nice to see the scope being used to it's full potential!

I was always too cowardly to do anything to it. :(

It's dead easy Craig, be methodical and take lots of photo's just in case you forgot where things go.

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Well done Mick. I think it's well worth it. Still no reply from those Perspex people I told you about and setting circle still not arrived in post!!

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