Stephen Posted October 8, 2016 Share Posted October 8, 2016 It looks built for the job a good fined, Some thing I could do with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philjay Posted October 8, 2016 Share Posted October 8, 2016 What great bit of kit. That looks like someones shed project and its really well thought out. I have an electric hand bandsaw which takes the work out of sawing. Hand hacksawing is so last year :-)Sent from my GT-P3110 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAZ Posted October 8, 2016 Share Posted October 8, 2016 A plasma disc (1mm thick) in a 115mm angle grinder works well, just let it work at it's own speed and it won't generate much heat and the disc will last longer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Posted October 8, 2016 Author Share Posted October 8, 2016 Well managed to get it running for 3 minutes before jamming. Still needs a little fettling but it's getting better. I've got an angle grinder so will buy some discs Baz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Posted December 9, 2016 Author Share Posted December 9, 2016 (edited) Spent yesterday in the workshop and I must admit I loved it. Made myself a couple of drawbars. For those who don't know they secure my collet chuck in either the lathe spindle or the miliing machine spindle. The chuck screws onto the drawbar with a M10 thread and is then inserted into the spindle. The drawbar is then tightened and the chuck cannot work loose. To remove chuck simply undo drawbar nut and hit lightly with a hammer and the collet chuck unscrews from the drawbar. The Myford is the longer one. I made it so it goes through the hole in the door so I can have the guard closed while I'm working. First proper items I've made. Next some T slot clamps. Edited December 9, 2016 by Doc philjay, Tweedledee, Smithysteve and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smithysteve Posted December 9, 2016 Share Posted December 9, 2016 Fab work Mick, very satisfying no doubt! I imagine everywhere is clean as a whistle too! ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Graham Posted December 9, 2016 Share Posted December 9, 2016 Welcome to my life Mick. Great isn't it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Posted December 10, 2016 Share Posted December 10, 2016 Nice bit of engineering Mick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brantuk Posted December 10, 2016 Share Posted December 10, 2016 That's a dead cool device and nicely engineered Mick. The chuck on my drill press is one of those conical friction grip ones that tap onto spindle and it's a right pain to get off. A drawbar would be very useful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Posted December 10, 2016 Author Share Posted December 10, 2016 If it's a drill press I bet it has a tang on the morse taper KIm. In that case you just need a drift but you need to know what taper you have. Similar to this one: 2MT drift Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tweedledee Posted December 10, 2016 Share Posted December 10, 2016 Looks very professional Mick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brantuk Posted December 10, 2016 Share Posted December 10, 2016 Thanks Mick - I'll look into that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Posted April 6, 2017 Author Share Posted April 6, 2017 Just a little update as few people have asked me how the shed is coming along. I've been busy building a little stationary steam engine, nothing really involved but it's going to look good and it's basically to jog my memory into using the lathe and milling machine, something I haven't done for 30 years. If it all goes well then I'll build the Alt/Az mount next. In case anyone is interested I'll post a build thread and photo's later on. I bought a really old air compressor which will run the engine. I also have air in the workshop now with a airline and gun. Also bought a bench press for the shed, might come in handy one day. Smithysteve, philjay and Brantuk 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Bino-viewer Posted April 6, 2017 Share Posted April 6, 2017 I'll be interested in your alt-az mount design Mick.... Give me a shout if you want to look at mine. I work in Notts so could always bring it over after work sometime ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tweedledee Posted April 6, 2017 Share Posted April 6, 2017 I too will be interested in your altaz mount and would also be pleased to see any progress on your steam engine project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Posted April 6, 2017 Author Share Posted April 6, 2017 Thanks Guys. To reignite my old apprenticeship days I decided to build a two cylinder vertical marine engine. The plans are here if you want to have a look. They are in metric but I'm building it in imperial. http://www.vapeuretmodelesavapeur.com/telechargements4/bicyl-marin.-vertical.pdf http://www.john-tom.com/MyPlans/Steam Engines/MarineEngine.pdf I'm about halfway through now and have found it fairly straight forward. Brantuk and Werisit 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brantuk Posted April 6, 2017 Share Posted April 6, 2017 Of course I'm interested in the alt/az mount, but the I've always loved steam engines. Used to love visiting Snibston till they closed it down. Really looking forward to both build threads - the engine looks dead natty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Posted April 7, 2017 Author Share Posted April 7, 2017 Two Cylinder Vertical Steam Engine First part I made was item #1 the base plate. I put engineers blue on the item and marked out the overall size of the base. I then moved the base to the milling machine and made it the correct size. Then back to the surface plate and height gauge to mark out the holes etc. I like to mark out the pattern so I know I'm in the correct vicinity as I use the dials on the milling machine to accurately plot where I should be. The dials are very accurate and you can work to within 1 thou. I mounted the base plate on the milling table and indicated one side with a DTI and then clamped it down. Moving the table in the correct directions and then I was able to centre spot, drill, and tap all the holes. Next with a 5.5mm slot drill cutter I was able to remove the material to form the slots. The next item was the bearings blocks item #2. The plans say it should be in bronze but that's pretty expensive so I made the bearing blocks in aluminium and the bearing in bronze. Firstly they needed to be split so the way to do this is glue to flat pieces of aluminium together and with the milling machine shape the block to resemble the correct dimensions. Then drill and ream the shaft hole. You then split the block and then make the bearings on the lathe. I don't have a rounding corner cutter yet so I left the top of the bearing blocks flat. When I get the cutter I will round them off. tuckstar and Brantuk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Posted April 7, 2017 Author Share Posted April 7, 2017 Next item was an additional add on to item #2, I decided to make three oil cups for the bearings. These were made on the lathe out of brass rod and included a M4 thread. The bearing caps were also threaded M4 to accept the oil cups. tuckstar, Smithysteve and Brantuk 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brantuk Posted April 7, 2017 Share Posted April 7, 2017 Great start Mick - looking good already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philjay Posted April 7, 2017 Share Posted April 7, 2017 (edited) Great stuff Mick. Ken would be well pleased to see the mill being used for a steam engine Edited April 7, 2017 by philjay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Posted April 8, 2017 Author Share Posted April 8, 2017 Next are items #10 and #11 on the plans. These are called the cylinder bottom cover and piston rod gland. Started off machining the cover out of aluminium bar in the lathe. The only really critical measurement here is the lip that sits inside the cylinder it needs to be a snug fit. I changed the gland thread from M12 to M14 as I never had a 12mm tap but had a few 14mm taps. A little bronze plug was pressed into the end then a 5.8mm drill was used to drill through the complete assembly and then reamed with a 6mm reamer. I then tested the fit on the cylinders, remember in time these cylinders will be fitted inside a cylinder head. They are Bronze bushes, they have an internal diameter of 38mm but the outside diameter needs to be reduced to at least 42mm, so I need to manufacture some sort of expanding arbor. The gland plug was then made, this was a straightforward lathe job and a M14 thread cut on one end. Once again a 6mm drill was used to drill through the gland. I don't seem to have any photo's of the gland nut. I piece of stainless stall 6mm bar was inserted to check for smoothness and straightness in the bore. Tweedledee 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tweedledee Posted April 8, 2017 Share Posted April 8, 2017 That all looks like top quality engineering Mick. You must have spent a lot of happy hours on that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Posted April 8, 2017 Author Share Posted April 8, 2017 It winds the day away Pete. A couple of more photo's. Tweedledee 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tweedledee Posted April 8, 2017 Share Posted April 8, 2017 1 hour ago, Doc said: It winds the day away Pete. I can see it is a labour of love. Keep the photos coming Mick, it is great to see what you are up to in your 5 star luxury workshop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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